William Hatcher Wines:

The fruit reveals the wine to the winemaker. Accordingly, the winemaker shepherds the wine rather than makes it. Notably, there is no word for "winemaker" in French, Italian or Spanish: one is vigneron, viticoltore or vinicultor, the idea being that the wine is made in the vineyard. In a given vintage, the optimal blend may comprise only half or so of the barrels I make. As with preparation of a fine meal, it is a question of what precisely informs the whole. Too much of the finest ingredient may overwhelm the balance. Thus, Rex Hill and A to Z are always blessed with some beautiful barrels.

The 2005 greets the nose with suggestions of dried cherries and plums, leathery notes, vanilla and pencil. The palate is redolent of converves - plum, cane berries, cranberry - with a silky texture that finishes long on fine tannins. With its firm acidic backbone, the wine will continue to develop and please for 10 to 15 years.